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Dr. Maryam Zamani is a highly respected Oculoplastic Surgeon and leading Facial Aesthetics Doctor and founder of MZ Skin. She specializes in surgical and non-surgical facial aesthetic procedures at her London clinic. Her skincare range features high performance products rooted in medical science coupled with women’s desires to reveal, enhance and protect their skin.
We had the pleasure of speaking with Maryam at our monthly #WakeleyWellbeing event held at our flagship store to discuss her journey into oculoplastic surgery and facial aesthetics...
Can you tell us how you decided to get into Oculoplastic and Facial Aesthetics?
I began my journey by specializing in Oculoplastic Surgery because I wanted to be surgically specialized in one particular area and master of it: rather than be a jack of all trades. This expanded into non-surgical facial aesthetics as the journey continued. I felt that there are a number of treatments that can be done to delay the need for surgery. My ethos has always been less is more and that we need ‘tweakments’ rather than dramatic changes to look and feel our best. This all starts with the skin. Skin is the very foundation of so many of the treatments and procedures we do, therefore skin is also where we need to start to maintaining and caring for ourselves. MZ Skin was born from the need for intelligent, clinically trialed skincare that also incorporates the sensory experience. Again, I do not think you need a dozen skincare steps but rather specific power house formulations for your skin type to combat intrinsic and extrinsic ageing factors.
Ageing - What happens to the face and skin when we age? Is there anything we can do to prevent it and slow the process down?
As we age, the face, skin, and bone structures beneath the skin change. We do lose some bone mass/density as we age and therefore the skin sits differently on our face as we do so. Fat distribution changes and fat compartments descend on the face. A common example is the dreaded jowl. Also, the skin itself ages. We do not generate collagen the way we did in our youth, the skin loses elasticity and we can see the long-term effects of UV radiation, nutrition, pollution, stress, medical conditions smoking/drinking, etc manifest themselves on the skin. This can be in fine lines, wrinkles, pigmentation, skin tone, jowling, and clarity to mention only a few.
I recommend a 3-pronged approach to Reveal, Enhance and protect the skin.
Reveal: gently cleansing the face daily, morning and night. Removing make up each and every day. Also, gently exfoliating the skin 2-3 times a week. Cleanse & Clarify is a gentle AHA cleanser that chemically helps to exfoliate dead skin, pollutants and make up to allow better penetration of active ingredients in your skincare
Enhance: use ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, Vit C/E, retinols, niacinamide, to help enhance the skin. Antixidants like Vit C and E can help improve collagenesis, protect against UV exposure and improve pigmentary changes. Retinol is a powerhouse ingredient that increases cell turnover, diminishing the depth of fine lines and wrinkles while also improving skin quality and even tone.
Protect: I always recommend prevention. For instance, decreasing UV exposure is an easy first recommendation. Wearing broad spectrum SPF 30 or above daily (rain or shine with re application throughout the day), avoiding peak UV exposure times, protective clothing…those are all easy steps to prevent damage caused by UV exposure.
Of course, stress increases our cortisol levels and often plays havoc on sleep and diet as well causing detrimental skin changes consistent with accelerated ageing.
Lots of people get confused around non-invasive treatments – what are they? Do non-invasive treatments help the skin and what's the best form of this?
Well this is a big topic. There is a plethora of non-invasive treatments that range from injectables like Botulinum toxin and Fillers to Lasers, Radiofrequency, Ultrasound treatments and so many more. It is best to go to your trusted doctor to discuss your concerns and create a bespoke plan to help address your particular issues.
What are you tips for post Summer Skincare?
Post summer everything changes- the weather, holiday, stress levels and so much more. At home and in office treatments such a light peel can be used to exfoliate and improve skin hydration. Hydrating and enhancing topical treatments rich in antioxidants and retinol can improve skin texture and clarity as well.
What can be done to help promote collagen synthesis?
Again, preventing collagen loss is just as important as increasing its creation. Minimize the toxins that break down collagen- sun, smoke, alcohol, stress. Topical ingredients like Vit C, retinol, certain acids, niacinamide. Good nutrition. Making sure you get your beauty sleep so your skin can repair itself.
Are there any good fillers out there that you can recommend? Does the body ever breakdown the fillers? If so, what happens?
There are many different types of fillers on the market. I recommend temporary fillers only and do not advocate permanent ones. Fillers are used to help volumize areas that have lost volume or need filling. I recommend using brands that have undergone stringest testing, like those approved by the Food and Drug administration in the states. Trusted brands include: Juvedern, Restylane, Belotero, Radiesse, and Scupltra to name a few. Depending on how the filler is produced, it can be in the system for months to a couple of years. Some fillers, like hyaluronic acid fillers, can be reversed if the outcome is not desired or if there is a complication associated with the filler.
How beneficial is stem cells to the skin? Do think this will continue to develop in the future?
I think this is an arena for greater development for now and the future and holds promise of improved skin production and condition.
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